Cartagena, Colombia – Caribbean Colour, Colonial Charm & Semana Santa

6 Days in Cartagena

After weeks exploring Colombia's mountains, coffee-growing region and bustling cities, we finally arrived at our last Colombian destination before heading to Peru – the beautiful Caribbean city of Cartagena.

And what a contrast!

Gone were the cooler mountain temperatures and lush green landscapes. Instead, we found tropical heat, palm trees, colourful colonial buildings and salsa music drifting through the streets long after sunset.

Cartagena felt completely different from anywhere else we'd visited in Colombia. With its historic walled city, lively neighbourhoods, Caribbean beaches and fascinating history, it seemed the perfect place to finish this part of our adventure.

We'd decided to spend six days here, partly because our visit coincided with Semana Santa (Holy Week), one of the most important religious celebrations in Colombia.

As it turned out, this made our stay particularly special.

Arriving in Cartagena – Our Home in Getsemaní

We chose to stay in Getsemaní, a lively neighbourhood just outside Cartagena's historic walled city.

Our accommodation was Selina Cartagena Hostel, which was considerably larger than some of the smaller, more intimate hostels we'd stayed in during our travels.

However, it turned out to be an excellent choice.

With two swimming pools, a rooftop bar and restaurant, plenty of communal space and a great social atmosphere, it was a welcome place to escape the intense Caribbean heat.

The location was ideal too. We could walk into the Old Town within minutes while enjoying everything Getsemaní had to offer right on our doorstep.

One thing we quickly discovered was that accommodation prices during Semana Santa were considerably higher than elsewhere in Colombia. If you're visiting at Easter, we'd definitely recommend booking well in advance.

Exploring Cartagena's Beautiful Walled City

Cartagena's historic Old Town is quite simply stunning.

Surrounded by enormous stone walls built during the Spanish colonial period to protect the city from attacks by pirates and foreign fleets, the UNESCO-listed centre is a maze of beautiful streets, colourful buildings and charming squares.

Everywhere we looked, there were brightly painted houses with wooden balconies overflowing with flowers, impressive churches, little cafés and restaurants tucked into historic buildings.

It's one of those places where you don't really need a plan.

We loved simply wandering through the narrow streets, discovering hidden squares, admiring the architecture and occasionally stopping for a cold drink to escape the heat.

And it really was hot!

Even early in the morning, temperatures climbed quickly, and we soon learnt that sightseeing was far more enjoyable if we took things slowly.

One of our favourite daily rituals was walking along the old city walls in the evening to watch the sun set over the Caribbean Sea.

As the heat of the day began to ease, people gathered along the walls, the sky turned shades of orange and pink, and the atmosphere was wonderful.

It became the perfect way to finish our days in Cartagena.

Getsemaní – Cartagena's Colourful and Lively Neighbourhood

While the Old Town is elegant and full of colonial charm, Getsemaní has a completely different personality.

And we loved it.

Once a working-class neighbourhood, Getsemaní has become one of Cartagena's most vibrant areas, known for its street art, colourful buildings, music and nightlife.

During the day, we wandered through streets decorated with murals, brightly coloured umbrellas and flags hanging overhead.

But it was in the evening that Getsemaní really came alive.

Restaurants spilled onto the pavements, fairy lights illuminated the streets, and salsa and jazz music filled the warm night air.

There was always something happening, whether it was people dancing, musicians performing or groups of friends enjoying the atmosphere.

It had a real Caribbean energy that was impossible not to enjoy.

If we returned to Cartagena, Getsemaní would definitely be our first choice of where to stay.

Semana Santa – An Unforgettable Easter Experience

One of the main reasons we'd chosen to spend six days in Cartagena was to experience Semana Santa, the celebrations leading up to Easter Sunday.

Colombia has a strong Catholic heritage, and Holy Week is an important time for religious ceremonies, family gatherings and processions.

We attended church services on Maundy Thursday and Easter Saturday, but the most memorable experience was undoubtedly the Good Friday procession.

For almost three hours, we joined thousands of local people walking through the historic streets of Cartagena.

Beautiful religious statues, including Jesus carrying the Cross and the Virgin Mary, were carried through the Old Town as the procession stopped at fourteen Stations of the Cross.

The atmosphere was extraordinary.

Despite the enormous crowds, there was a sense of reverence and community as families, young children and older generations came together to mark this important occasion.

What made it particularly special for us was how welcome we felt.

Rather than standing on the sidelines watching as tourists, we found ourselves walking alongside local people, sharing in a tradition that clearly meant so much to them.

It was moving, fascinating and completely different from anything else we'd experienced during our month in Colombia.

Without doubt, one of the highlights of our entire trip.

The Rosario Islands – Caribbean Beaches and Glowing Plankton

Of course, we couldn't visit Cartagena without exploring the nearby Rosario Islands.

This beautiful archipelago lies off the Caribbean coast and is famous for its turquoise waters, coral reefs and tropical beaches.

We booked a full-day boat excursion that took us around five islands, with stops for snorkelling, swimming, lunch and relaxing on the beaches.

One of the more unusual experiences was snorkelling above what our tour described as Pablo Escobar's sunken plane.

It was certainly a strange reminder of Colombia's notorious drug-trafficking history, although the real highlight of the day was still to come.

As evening approached, we headed out to experience something we'd never seen before – bioluminescent plankton.

After darkness fell, we climbed into the warm Caribbean Sea.

Suddenly, as we moved our arms and legs through the water, thousands of tiny organisms began glowing an extraordinary electric blue.

Every movement created little flashes of light around us.

It was almost impossible to believe what we were seeing.

The effect was magical, and although we tried, it's incredibly difficult to capture properly on camera.

Of all the experiences during our year out, this was certainly one of the most unusual and memorable.

The Rosario Islands were beautiful, although we did discover that food and drinks could cost three or four times more than in Cartagena itself.

Definitely something to bear in mind when planning your day.

Discovering Cartagena's History – San Pedro Claver Museum

Cartagena has a fascinating but often troubling colonial history.

As one of the most important Spanish ports in South America, it became a major centre for trade, including the transatlantic slave trade.

We visited the San Pedro Claver Museum, housed in the historic religious complex associated with the Spanish Jesuit priest Pedro Claver.

During the seventeenth century, Claver devoted much of his life to helping enslaved Africans arriving in Cartagena, providing food, care and spiritual support to people who had endured terrible conditions during their Atlantic crossing.

The museum tells his story while offering an insight into Cartagena's colonial past.

It was a moving and thought-provoking visit and an important reminder that behind the beautiful architecture and colourful streets lies a much more complicated history.

A Colombian Coffee Experience at Café San Alberto

After spending time in Colombia's coffee-growing region, we'd developed a real appreciation for Colombian coffee.

So when we discovered Café San Alberto in Cartagena, we couldn't resist visiting.

Rather than simply ordering a coffee, we decided to take part in one of their tasting experiences.

We learnt about the different aromas, flavours and brewing methods, discovering just how much difference the preparation can make to the final cup.

It was fascinating to appreciate coffee in a completely different way, taking time to notice the subtle flavours rather than simply drinking it.

San Alberto has won numerous awards for its coffee, and we could certainly understand why.

If you enjoy coffee, this is definitely worth adding to your Cartagena itinerary.

Salsa, Music and Evenings in Cartagena

Cartagena really comes alive after dark.

As the temperatures become more comfortable, the streets fill with people enjoying restaurants, bars and music.

One of our favourite places was Donde Fidel, a famous salsa bar in the Old Town.

Although the music wasn't live, the atmosphere was fantastic.

Salsa music played throughout the evening, and the dance floor was filled with people who clearly knew exactly what they were doing!

We loved watching the dancers and soaking up the atmosphere.

Back in Getsemaní, there were plenty more opportunities to enjoy live music, particularly salsa and jazz, often spilling out of bars and restaurants into the streets.

Evenings in Cartagena were every bit as enjoyable as the sightseeing during the day.

A Few Things We Learnt About Cartagena

Cartagena is a wonderful city, but there are a few things we'd definitely recommend knowing before you visit.

The heat is intense. We found Cartagena considerably hotter than many of our previous Colombian destinations. Plenty of water, shade and Factor 50 sunscreen were essential.

Be prepared for street vendors. You'll be offered everything from hats and sunglasses to jewellery, drinks and souvenirs. Most vendors were friendly, but the constant approaches could become a little tiring.

Photographs aren't always free. The women dressed in traditional colourful Caribbean outfits are a familiar sight around Cartagena. If you'd like a photograph with them, agree a price beforehand.

Be careful with beach massages. On the Rosario Islands, we witnessed a tourist being asked to pay around one million Colombian pesos – approximately £200–£250 at the time – after accepting a massage without agreeing the price first.

Check what's included in boat tours. Our Rosario Islands excursion was a wonderful experience, but drinks and additional purchases on the islands were considerably more expensive than in the city.

Book early during Semana Santa. Accommodation prices rise significantly during Holy Week, and the city becomes extremely busy.

Our Favourite Cartagena Moments

Looking back, there were five experiences that really stood out.

• The Good Friday procession: Joining thousands of local people during Semana Santa was an incredibly moving experience.

• Bioluminescent plankton: Swimming in the warm Caribbean Sea surrounded by tiny flashes of blue light was unforgettable.

• Sunset on the city walls: A simple but beautiful way to end each day.

• The colourful streets of Getsemaní: Full of character, music and life.

• The Rosario Islands: A wonderful opportunity to experience Colombia's Caribbean coastline.

Our Thoughts on Cartagena

Cartagena was a wonderful place to finish our Colombian adventure.

It was completely different from the mountains of Salento, the transformation of Medellín, the colourful streets of Guatapé and the natural beauty of Minca.

Here, everything felt unmistakably Caribbean.

The heat, music, food, architecture and atmosphere all combined to create a city full of energy and personality.

We also felt comfortable exploring, particularly around the Old Town and Getsemaní, where there was a very visible police presence.

Would we stay for six days again?

Probably not.

Under normal circumstances, we think three or four days would be enough to enjoy the main sights, explore Getsemaní and take a trip to the Rosario Islands.

However, experiencing Semana Santa made our longer stay absolutely worthwhile.

Cartagena was colourful, lively, historic and occasionally a little overwhelming – but we wouldn't have missed it.

And with that, our Colombian adventure came to an end.

Next stop: Peru!

After almost a month exploring Colombia, it was time for another adventure. We flew from Cartagena to Lima and then onwards to Cusco, ready to tackle our three-day Machu Picchu hike.

From Caribbean beaches to the mountains of the Andes – our year out was about to take another exciting turn.