Five Days in Martinique – A Caribbean Island We Fell in Love With

Martinique, what a beautiful island! From picture-perfect Caribbean beaches and lush tropical rainforests to cascading waterfalls, challenging hikes, hummingbirds and a very special birthday, our five days here were packed with wonderful experiences.

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Martinique is an overseas region of France, with a fascinating blend of French and West Indian culture. Think colourful markets, roadside fruit stalls, delicious Creole food, rum, fresh coconut juice and beautiful bays dotted with yachts.

We loved the little independent fruit kiosks found on so many roundabouts, often selling better produce than the supermarkets!

Martinique felt quite different from neighbouring St Lucia. The roads were excellent, driving was easy, and there was a distinctly European feel. It was also a great opportunity for me to practise my French.

Getting to Martinique – Ferry from St Lucia

Our adventure began in Castries, St Lucia, where we boarded the L'Express des Îles ferry for the crossing to Fort-de-France.

We booked flexible return tickets well in advance, paying around 139 Euros return per person. The extra flexibility was worth having in case our plans changed.

A few useful tips from our experience:

• Take your online booking confirmation to the ferry terminal to exchange it for a paper ticket.

• We paid EC$33 per person in departure tax and completed a departure form.

• Our luggage went into the hold because it weighed more than 10kg.

• Take food and drinks! There was no food available in the departure waiting room or on our ferry.

Once in Fort-de-France, we collected a hire car from the airport, a taxi journey costing approximately €35. From there, it was around an hour's drive south to Sainte-Anne.

These were our costs and arrangements at the time of travelling; check current ferry, tax and luggage requirements before departure.

Our home in Sainte-Anne

We stayed at Sweet Sunset Villa, part of Anoli Lodges, booked through Rêves de Soleil.

What a find! Our little apartment had a compact kitchen and bedroom, but most of our living space was outside, with a lovely terrace overlooking the swimming pool and beautiful bay.

Green lizards visited us each morning,

and in the evenings the yachts twinkled across the water.

Our host, Virginie, was fantastic. She helped arrange our airport taxi during the Carnival and gave us so many recommendations for places to visit and eat. Thanks to her, we had five very full days ahead.

Day 1 – Coastal walks and Caribbean beaches

Our first day was all about exploring the beautiful coastline around Sainte-Anne.

We walked from Anse Caritan to Grande Anse des Salines, following part of the famous Trace des Caps coastal trail.

The walk took around 50 minutes, winding through shady trees before opening onto some of the most beautiful beaches we've seen.

There was even a swing by the sea, perfect for a photograph!

At Les Salines, families were camping beneath the trees, the sea was turquoise, and the whole place had that wonderfully relaxed Caribbean atmosphere.

We stopped for lunch at a little beach restaurant, where the plat du jour came with a complimentary cocktail. Sitting there looking out over the sea, I had to pinch myself. It was absolutely idyllic.

Day 2 – Morne Larcher and swimming with turtles

Today was rather more energetic!

Using AllTrails, we tackled the hike up Morne Larcher, a steep, rocky climb with magnificent views over the coastline and the famous Diamond Rock.

It took us around two and a half to three hours there and back, clambering over boulders in temperatures of about 31°C. The descent was almost as difficult as the climb!

But the views made every sweaty step worthwhile.

Afterwards, we drove towards Grande Anse d'Arlet, a beautiful bay known for its turtles. We stopped for lunch at a bustling little restaurant in Les Anses-d'Arlet. It was packed, and we had to wait for a table, but that was all part of the experience.

A wonderful day combining a challenging hike, spectacular scenery and the laid-back atmosphere of a Caribbean seaside village.

Day 3 – Birthday celebrations, beaches and Carnival

A special day – my birthday!

We headed to Anse Michel, a gorgeous beach on the Atlantic coast, popular with kitesurfers. With its white sand, palm trees and beautiful shallow water, it was the perfect place to spend the day.

That evening, we celebrated my birthday with dinner at Le M Restaurant. It was also Valentine's evening, so definitely not our cheapest meal, but the food and setting were excellent.

Carnival celebrations were taking place too, adding music, colour and a wonderful festive atmosphere to the island.

A birthday to remember!

Day 4 – Rainforest adventures and tropical gardens

Today we swapped beaches for rainforest and set off to explore the Cascades Didier, in the hills above Fort-de-France.

There are two waterfalls, and reaching them is an adventure in itself.

The first waterfall is reached by a relatively straightforward route, although you need a torch to pass through a dark tunnel of around 15 metres. At the waterfall, there's a beautiful natural pool where you can swim.

The second waterfall is much more challenging. There is no proper footpath, so we followed the river upstream, scrambling over slippery boulders and occasionally spotting red and white markers in the trees.

It felt like a proper jungle expedition!

The second waterfall was spectacular and absolutely worth the effort. Our round trip took around three hours.

A word of caution: This is an unofficial, potentially hazardous route, particularly after heavy rain. Conditions can change quickly, so check local access and safety advice before attempting it.

Jardin de Balata – A tropical paradise

Just a short drive from the waterfalls, we visited Jardin de Balata, one of the most beautiful botanical gardens we've visited.

The gardens are filled with extraordinary tropical plants, colourful flowers and tiny hummingbirds darting between the blooms.

One of the highlights was the treetop walkway, offering a completely different perspective over the gardens and surrounding rainforest.

The main restaurant was very busy, but we discovered a snack bar upstairs where we enjoyed a plat du jour and a cold beer.

A perfect finish to a fantastic day.

Official website: Jardin de Balata

Day 5 – One last day in paradise

For our final day, we decided to slow things down and return to Anse Michel.

We had fallen in love with this beach, and with beautiful weather it was the perfect place to relax, swim and soak up the last of our time on the island.

That evening, back at our villa, we watched the sunset over the bay from our terrace, with the lights of the anchored yachts beginning to sparkle in the distance.

It was one of those moments when you really don't want a trip to end.

Our thoughts on Martinique – Would we return?

Absolutely, without hesitation!

Five days gave us a wonderful taste of Martinique, but we barely scratched the surface. We explored mainly the south and a little of the rainforest around Fort-de-France, leaving the mountainous north, its volcanic landscapes and so many other beautiful places for another adventure.

What made Martinique special was the variety. One day we were relaxing on a postcard-perfect beach, the next scrambling up a mountain or wading through a river to find a hidden waterfall.

Add in excellent food, friendly people, French-Caribbean culture and our lovely accommodation, and it was one of our favourite Caribbean stops.

Martinique, we will definitely be back!