St Lucia – Two Visits, One Beautiful Caribbean Island

From kayaking in Marigot Bay to a romantic treehouse overlooking the Pitons

St Lucia was our first introduction to the Caribbean, and what an introduction it was! Lush tropical rainforests, dramatic volcanic mountains, secluded beaches and beautiful natural harbours. It was an island full of surprises.

We actually visited St Lucia twice during our Caribbean adventure, with a five-day trip to the neighbouring French island of Martinique in between. This gave us the opportunity to experience two very different sides of St Lucia. Our first stay was all about exploring from the beautiful Marigot Bay, while our second was spent in a secluded treehouse near Soufrière, surrounded by jungle with spectacular views of the famous Pitons.

By the end of our second visit, we had completely fallen for the island.

Part One – Exploring St Lucia from Marigot Bay

Arriving in Paradise

We landed at Hewanorra Airport to a wonderful 31°C and took a taxi across the island to Marigot Bay on the west coast. The journey itself was an adventure, winding through incredibly lush tropical scenery and giving us our first glimpse of just how green and mountainous St Lucia is.

By the time we arrived, it was dark, but that didn't stop us exploring. We wandered along the waterfront, admiring the yachts moored in the harbour, before finding a lovely bar for our first Caribbean drink.

Our accommodation, Ocean View Apartments, was a real find.

The spacious, open-plan apartment had high ceilings, plenty of light and a wonderful balcony overlooking the marina. We could happily have spent hours watching the yachts coming and going.

An added bonus was access to the neighbouring Zoëtry Marigot Bay resort, including its swimming pool and gym. Needless to say, the pool saw rather more of us than the gym!

Kayaking to Our Own Deserted Beach

We're not particularly good at sitting still on holiday, so our first adventure involved hiring a double kayak from Aquarius Water Sports.

We paddled out of Marigot Bay and followed the coastline for around three hours, exploring little coves and beaches along the way.

One beach looked as though it belonged in Jurassic Park, surrounded by dense tropical vegetation, although sadly it was spoilt by plastic rubbish washed ashore.

But then we discovered the most wonderful tiny beach, completely deserted. We pulled the kayak ashore and suddenly that picture-postcard Caribbean dream became a reality. Just the two of us, turquoise water and a beautiful little stretch of sand.

Getting in and out of the kayak wasn't entirely graceful, and at one point we thought we'd lost our Insta360 camera in the water. Fortunately, its floating attachment saved the day!

After three hours of paddling, we'd definitely earned a cold beer. We stopped at Doolittle's before taking the little ferry back across the bay.

Pigeon Island and Rodney Fort

We hired a car for three days to explore further afield. Driving in St Lucia was certainly an experience, with steep, winding roads and plenty of potholes. Our little hire car even had its satnav in Korean, which wasn't particularly helpful!

Our first destination was Pigeon Island National Landmark in the north of the island.

We climbed up to Rodney Fort, where the panoramic views across the coastline were absolutely magnificent. The island is steeped in history, and the old fortifications provide a fascinating glimpse into St Lucia's colonial past.

It was hot, windy and well worth the effort. Afterwards, we found a little beachside restaurant for lunch.

Tropical Gardens, Waterfalls and the Pitons

Another day took us south towards Soufrière, through thick rainforest and past colourful little villages, including Canaries.

We visited the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, a beautiful tropical garden filled with hibiscus, red ginger, frangipani and towering trees laden with coconuts.

The waterfall itself wasn,t terribly impressive, Andy was rather disappointed to discover that swimming wasn't permitted.

He'd even brought his swimming things!

Not to be defeated, we continued to the nearby Piton Falls, where we could finally enjoy the warm mineral waters.

The drive back was only around 32 kilometres, but it took over an hour on the twisting mountain roads. Distances in St Lucia can certainly be deceptive.

A Boat Trip to Sugar Beach

One of our absolute highlights was a boat trip with Cornelius from Smooth Operators.

We travelled along the spectacular west coast, stopping in little bays before arriving at Sugar Beach, nestled between the iconic Gros Piton and Petit Piton.

Seeing those enormous volcanic peaks rising directly from the sea was unforgettable.

We also stopped at Anse Chastanet for a lovely lunch and a wander around the beach and its little art gallery.

The return journey provided an unexpected adventure when a sudden tropical thunderstorm arrived. We were absolutely drenched, but it was all part of the fun and certainly made the trip memorable.

Our Thoughts on Marigot Bay

Marigot Bay is one of the most beautiful natural harbours we've visited. With its yachts, waterfront restaurants and lush hillsides, it has an almost exclusive atmosphere. However there are a couple of things worth knowing. Marigot Bay isn't the place to come if you're looking for a long white sandy beach, and self-catering can be difficult without transport, as there isn't a supermarket within easy walking distance. We would highly recommend hiring a car if your are staying here. Nevertheless, we absolutely loved our five days here.

A Five-Day Detour to Martinique

After our first stay in St Lucia, we headed across the water to Martinique for five days.

This French Caribbean island offered a completely different experience, with its own distinctive culture, beautiful beaches, waterfalls and wonderful opportunities for hiking.

It was also a great chance for me to practise my French!

After five fantastic days exploring Martinique, we boarded the ferry back to St Lucia for the second part of our adventure.

Little did we know that we were about to discover an even more magical side of the island.

Part Two – A Romantic Treehouse Near Soufrière

Our Jungle Hideaway

For our second visit, we had chosen somewhere completely different: Treehouse Hideaway, Villa 2, perched high above the coastline just north of Soufrière.

Getting there was an adventure in itself. The steep, rocky access road was certainly not for the faint-hearted, and we were extremely grateful to have hired a 4x4.

But when we arrived and saw the view, we knew it had been worth every bump.

Our beautiful eco-villa was surrounded by tropical gardens and jungle, with breathtaking views across the Caribbean Sea towards the Pitons.

The main living area was upstairs, opening onto an enormous covered veranda. There was a four-poster bed, a lovely kitchen and plenty of space to relax.

Downstairs, a secluded terrace featured a saltwater plunge pool with a little cascading waterfall.

The villa also had solar panels and rainwater collection, which made it feel particularly appropriate for its natural setting.

One of our favourite spots was a little bench in the garden that we nicknamed the Hummingbird Seat. Sitting there watching the birds, listening to the jungle and enjoying the peace was simply wonderful.

For once, neither of us felt the need to rush off exploring every minute. We were perfectly happy just being there.

Searching for a Secret Beach

Of course, our adventurous side eventually got the better of us.

We'd heard about a tiny secret beach nearby, apparently excellent for snorkelling, so we set off with masks and snorkels borrowed from the villa.

Finding it proved more difficult than expected. The directions weren't particularly clear, and we managed to take the wrong route before eventually discovering the proper little path down to the shore.

But what a reward!

The beach was tiny, secluded and almost completely deserted, apart from two local fishermen whom we stopped to chat with.

Andy went snorkelling and discovered wonderfully clear water, colourful fish of every shape and size, and beautiful coral.

It was one of those experiences that perfectly captures why we love travelling: finding somewhere special, away from the crowds, and having time to enjoy it.

Anse Chastanet and Life by the Sea

We also returned to Anse Chastanet, one of St Lucia's beautiful beaches, backed by tropical vegetation.

Although the beach is associated with a luxury resort, the beaches in St Lucia are public, so visitors can still enjoy them without staying at the hotels.

We were rather amused by the cost of hiring sun loungers and decided that sitting on the sand for free suited us perfectly well!

Back at the treehouse, evenings were wonderfully relaxed. Andy took charge of the cooking, including a delicious Caribbean-style red snapper curry with coconut milk.

There was something rather special about preparing dinner in our own little jungle hideaway, surrounded by birdsong and those incredible views.

We even had a few unexpected wildlife visitors to keep us entertained!

Climbing Gros Piton

One of our biggest adventures was climbing Gros Piton, one of St Lucia's two famous volcanic peaks.

We set off at around 7 am, negotiating the challenging road down from our villa before driving through Soufrière towards the start of the trail.

The final stretch of road was particularly rough, and we were very glad of our 4x4.

At the entrance, we were allocated a local guide, Katy, and completed the formalities before setting off.

The hike was challenging, with steep sections and plenty of climbing, but the scenery made every step worthwhile.

As we climbed higher, magnificent views opened up across the island, towards Petit Piton, the coastline and the surrounding mountains.

Our guide also pointed out interesting plants and features of the landscape, including the difference between bananas and plantains.

It was a physically demanding morning, but one of the most memorable experiences of our time in St Lucia.

Making Chocolate in the Caribbean

For something completely different, we visited the Hotel Chocolat estate for a chocolate-making experience.

We enjoyed learning about chocolate production and having a go at making our own chocolate, with a lovely lunch included in the visit.

While waiting for our creations to set, we wandered along a beautiful trail through the estate.

There was hardly anyone around, and we discovered a little swing with stunning views towards the Pitons.

It was another of those unexpected moments that made our time on the island so special.

Two Very Different Experiences of St Lucia

Looking back, it almost felt as though we'd visited two different islands.

Our first stay in Marigot Bay had been full of activity: kayaking, boat trips, driving through the rainforest, visiting waterfalls and exploring the coastline.

Our second stay near Soufrière felt altogether more peaceful and romantic. The treehouse, the hummingbirds, the plunge pool and the spectacular views gave us the opportunity to slow down and really appreciate our surroundings.

Of course, we still managed to fit in some wonderful adventures, particularly climbing Gros Piton and discovering our secret snorkelling beach.

If we had to choose our favourite moments, the boat trip to Sugar Beach would be hard to beat from our first visit. From the second, simply staying in that extraordinary treehouse was a highlight in itself.

St Lucia surprised us in so many ways. It's an island of dramatic landscapes, wonderful natural beauty and plenty of opportunities for adventure, but it's also somewhere you can find complete peace and tranquillity.

And perhaps that's what we loved most: the combination of adventure and relaxation, all wrapped up in one beautiful Caribbean island.